Hakuba Skiing Japan – Guide for First-Timers

Getting to Hakuba – From Tokyo to Hakuba via Train or Bus.

Option 1: Bullet Train from Tokyo to Hakuba (Train, Bullet Train, Bus)

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For those looking to get the bullet-train experience, there is an option for you. First, make your way from the airport to Tokyo Station – via the Narita Express is easiest but there are a few other options. Then, grab yourself a ticket on the JR Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagano – it costs around 8000-9000 yen and takes about 100 minutes. Once in Nagano, an express bus from Nagano to Hakuba will take around 90 minutes and drop you at Hakuba Station or directly at the base of several ski resorts. This is a good option if you have the Japan Rail (JR) Pass as it covers the Shinkansen part of the journey.

Bullet Train from Tokyo to Hakuba.

Option 2: Express Train from Tokyo to Hakuba (Train, Train)

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For those look for a bit more of an adventure and are comfortable navigating public transport transfers fresh-off-the-plane in a new country, try this. Get yourself from Narita to Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station – via the Narita express or the Skyliner and a metro. From Shinjuku Station, take the JR Azusa limited express train to Matsumoto and transfer to a local train to Hakuba on the JR Oito Line. Just make sure you get one of the limited express trains that runs all the way to Hakuba Station. This whole journey is covered by the JR Pass. This journey takes 4-5 hours.

Option 3: Narita to Hakuba Bus

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For those arriving late in the evening (like us) then this will be your only option – and a relatively no-fuss one at that. During the winter, you can pre-book a Narita to Hakuba Bus transfer with Nagano Snow Shuttle. They have a counter in Terminal 2 of Narita airport and will direct you to one of their large comfortable buses. Definitely book this in advance in peak season otherwise you may get stranded at Narita overnight until their first bus the next morning. Once at Hakuba Base Camp, you’ll be separated up into smaller buses for direct transfer to your hotel. The whole journey takes about six hours so by the time we checked-in to our hotel at 2am, we were pretty shattered.

Nagano Snow Shuttle Purple Buses.

Transferring to your accommodation

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Depending on which option you use to get from Narita to Hakuba, you may or may not need to organised a transfer to your accommodation. Lots of hotels/lodges/resorts offer pick-ups if you give them notice. As mentioned above, the Nagano Snow Shuttle drops you at your accommodation door and your final option is a taxi (e.g. from Hakuba Station).

Hakuba Valley Ski Map.

Hakuba Valley is set at the foot of spectacular alpine mountain ranges that provide a breathtaking panorama and some of the best skiing conditions in the world. Made up of nine major ski resorts, one of the hardest decisions you’ll have to make each morning is which one to ski at each day. Here’s a basic overview of each resort currently operating.

Hakuba Skiing Japan – Valley Ski Map

Hakuba Goryu

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> There are three areas (Alps-daira, Tohmi and Iimori) of alpine skiing and fifteen courses to enjoy, so Hakuba Goryu Snow Resort has lots to offer every skill level.
> Alps-daira ski slope has a long season and can be open through to the end of April.
> Tohmi and Iimori slopes are ideal for beginners, kids and families. This is where we spent the first couple of days learning to snowboard.
> You’ll also find the largest night skiing area here.

Hakuba 47

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> Known for its Winter Sports Park that offers a half-pipe for professionals and various jumps, Hakuba47 isn’t as beginner-friendly as some of the other resorts.
> But, it is now joined with Goryu (above) and you can ski between them if you’re looking to take things up a notch.

Happo-One

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> Made famous by the Nagano Winter Olympic Games in 1998, this is a truly world-class resort and probably the most popular in the valley.
> With around 23km of runs, you’ll need more than a day to properly explore this place. And while there are lots of big open runs for beginners, just don’t find yourself on some of the steep pistes or that 8km course on your first day!
> The huge scale of Happo-One means there is also great amenities (restaurants, cafes, shops, etc.) to enjoy while not carving up the powdery runs.

Hakuba Iwatake

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> With a gondola lift that takes you on a non-stop trip to the top of the mountain, you’ll be able to avoid exposed chairlifts and enjoy a panoramic view of the valley below.
> Even up top, there are a range of wide and gentle slopes for beginners. It is also well known for the cross-country ski trails that are maintained year round.
> We only spent about an hour here before I broke my wrist. It was an icy day with hardly any visibility so can’t personally vouch for the more commonly experienced amazing conditions. For me, this place sucked for skiing but they did have fast medical care.

Tsugaike Kogen

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> Tsugaike Kogen is considered the ‘Queen of Green’, with a massive beginner area that makes it well suited to families and beginners.
> You might not find much in the way of English-speaking lessons here, but it’s a perfect spot to consolidate your learning and explore confidently away from the safety of a lesson.
> With a gondola ride about 5km’s long, you’re basically getting a free sightseeing ticket with every lift pass!

The amazing gondola views at Tsugaike Kogen Hakuba Japan.

Hakuba Norikura

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> Sometimes referred to as Cortina’s little sister, Hakuba Norikura is less popular with foreign visitors than many of the other nine resorts.
> While most of the runs here are fairly short and beginner-friendly, you will find plenty of variety including a mogul course, steep course and a terrain park.
> On powder days, most of the powderhounds will be heading to Cortina which means you might find yourself with some untouched fresh powder… bliss!

Hakuba Cortina

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> Cortina is known for its epic powder days, with the highest annual records owned by this resort. It’s also very popular for its amazing tree-runs, or so I’m told.
> While a long day-trip from the centre of Hakuba valley, if you’re looking for a ski-in, ski-out resort then you’ll love the Hotel Green Plaza Hakuba.
> Not really known as a beginner resort but loved by the powderhounds visiting Hakuba.

Jigatake

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> A calm and quiet option for beginners and families, Jigatake offers plenty in the way of gentle and uncrowded slopes with good visibility.
> It’s a little bit further out but is an option for beginners looking to avoid the crowds.

Kashimayari

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> Kashimayari is closest to the Matsumoto area and one of the first resorts you’ll see coming from Tokyo.
> It’s less crowded but still offers 16 courses and a good range of options, including some good beginner runs and a 5km downhill course with a great view of Aoki Lake.
> The views of the Northern Japan Alps and Kashimayari peak itself might be reason enough to make the slightly longer trip out from Hakuba village.

Hakuba snow season dates

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With a ski season that can last up to 5 months, it’s important to know which time of year is going to suit you best. Are you a powder hound happy to pay peak prices or a relaxed spring skier looking for a bargain? Here are the basics of the Hakuba snow season dates you need to consider.

Opening Season
> Late November to Mid December.
> Good for last minute bookings if snow comes early but difficult to predict.
> Often good snow on the upper halves of the mountains which open first.
> Accomodation prices significantly lower than Christmas and Peak season.
> Not all amenities, services and restaurants will be open so best to stay close to a resort.

Christmas & New Year
> Mid December to early January.
> Good skiing conditions with plenty of snow.
> Japan’s biggest public holiday is New Year so accommodation books out early – best to plan well ahead.
> Prices are highest during this time.

Peak Season
> Early January to late February.
> Regular powder days and great conditions.
> Temperatures and weather vary with some very cold days and a few sunnier ones as well.
> Busy period for international travellers so best to book ahead for the popular resorts and self-catered apartments.
> Prices are higher around Chinese New Year.

Spring / Shoulder Season
> March.
> More sunny days with slightly warmer temperatures.
> Occasional powder days but also rain days are possible.
> More relaxed vibe and smaller lift queues, particularly on weekdays.
> Lower accomodation prices.
> Great time to combine with Cherry Blossom season in Tokyo after your ski week.

Closing Season
> April.
> Difficult to predict so good for locals and last minute bookings.
> Only upper lifts likely to remain open on mountains with enough snow.
> Good for terrain parks and backcountry skiing.
> Lower prices and limited amenities/services still operating.

Hakuba Ski Hire

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There’s lots of Hakuba ski hire options available. Located at the based of each of the Hakuba ski resorts and in Hakuba Village, you shouldn’t have any trouble hiring some good quality gear. We used Central Snowsports which has three locations in Hakuba and conveniently offers a free guest shuttle where they pick you up and drop you off at your accommodation. They’ll also pick up your gear from your hotel at the end of your stay… bonus.

Our snowboards from Central Snowsports Hakuba.

Hakuba Ski and Snowboard Lessons

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If you’re new to this whole snowy-sport world, ski and snowboard lessons are a must for beginners. It’s easy to find lessons with English-speaking instructions in Hakuba – the ones we had were from Australia, New Zealand and Canada – at most of the ski resorts. Happo-one and Hakuba Goryu are two good options for beginners with plenty of ski school options and can be easily booked on the morning of your lesson.

Learning the ropes on my first snowboard lesson.

Hakuba Lodge and Accommodation Options

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There’s a full range of accommodation options in Hakuba to suit almost all styles and budgets. Here a few things to think about when finding great Hakuba accommodation.
> Room style: western rooms with single/double beds or Japanese rooms where you sleep on tatami mat flooring.
> Location: deciding which village or part of Hakuba to stay will narrow your search. Find one that has good access to your preferred ski resort and good bars and restaurants. The most popular villages for tourists are those near Happo-one Ski Resort, Happo, Wadano and Echoland.
> Low budget options: there a several backpackers and lodges that offer Japanese style rooms and shared bathrooms.
> Shard onsen: if your hotel has shared bathrooms and the onsen is the only place to bathe you’ll need to be comfortable with taking your clothes off in front of others. Or bathing alone at 3am…
> Airbnb – from chalets and treehouses to lodges and mountain huts, there’s lots of great options available on Airbnb. If you’ve never used AirBnB, you can use our referral link and save $55 AUD (US$40) on your first booking.

Snowlines Lodge Hakuba

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During our week in Hakuba, we stayed at Snowlines Lodge. My brother had stayed here the year before and given it rave reviews, which is how we ended up in an En-suite Room at the start of the spring season.

Here’s what we loved:
> We had our own ensuite with shower and toilet, but also the option to use the communal onsen if we liked (some of the other room types offer the onsen as the only option).
> The bed was a normal western style, large and super comfy type, so we didn’t have to test the Japanese style mat on the ground scenario here.
> Snowlines offers a free shuttle bus every morning to all of the major ski resorts so no need to fight for a spot on the public buses. Massive draw-card!
> It’s central to both Happo & Echoland (about a 5-10 minutes walk either way) which means lots of restaurant options. Oh, and having someone else make recommendations and reservations for amazing Japanese food places is definitely an added bonus.
> We were able to check-in at 2am, which means we didn’t waste a night in Tokyo and were able to start shredding powder on our first morning.
> For English-speaking tourists (like us), the couple who run the place, Stephen (Australian) and Sarasa (Local Japanese), offer a fantastic mix of easy communication and an authentic local host experience.
> It also has its own bar and restaurant for breakfast, some weekly dinners and cooking classes, as well as pretty good wifi..

Snowlines Lodge Hakuba the morning after we arrived.

Hakuba Restaurants

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Here are some of the Hakuba restaurants and eating options we tried during our stay.

Eat-in (if offered by accommodation)

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Our accommodation (and many others, I believe) offer the option of some in-house dinners a few nights a week. These are often traditional Japanese style meals like Nabe and Sukiyaki. If your accommodation features a local chef then these are well worth trying (and super convenient without having to brave the freezing temperatures outside).

B.O.S Okonomiyaki

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Japanese pancake (okonomiyaki) restaurant. It’s tiny so book ahead but prepare to be impressed – best okonomiyaki we had in Japan.

Yamanami Teppanyaki

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Just down the street from our accommodation was this new Teppanyaki place which we loved. Not a cheap option if you’re looking to try the traditional Wagyu beef but great entertainment if you’re sitting at the bar and watching the chef do his thing.

Izakaya Hie

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On the main street of Echoland we found this dimly lit authentic Japanese tapas place with a really chilled atmosphere. We shared a whole heap of different dishes amongst the group – all delicious.

Miyama Ghengis Khan

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Mongolian Lamb BBQ restaurant on the main street of Echoland. We went with a set banquet of sorts and had heaps of fun cooking our own delicious meat BBQ. Not traditional Japanese food but gets a mention because I loved it.

Have you been or are you planning to snowboard or ski in Hakuba Japan? Let us know in the comments!